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The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2001
by Terry Duvack & Jill Dupleix
Winner of Chef's Hat
Good Wine List
Just when we were about to give up on Leichhardt, along comes Grappa, a breakaway restaurant opened by Charlie Colosi, formerly of La Perla, a much-liked Norton street staple. Grappa might be located down the wrong end of Norton Street (that is, the non-cafe end), but it is fast turning it into the right end. It's a huge rambling place full of happily Italian families, a roaring wood-fired pizza oven and a snappy bar scene. This is one of the few Italian restaurants in town where you can order a huge, baked, salt-crusted snapper from the menu, and it's a beauty. Throw in some good house-made pasta, risotto of the day, pizza of the day and carpaccio of the day (the pale and tender swordfish carpaccio is very good) and you could be in Sardinia, Rome or Naples - or down the right end of Norton Street.
Score 15/20
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